Heckmair route

The Eiger, the man-eating ogre, the first Swiss mountain that has been named. At 1,800 meters high, the famous north face is also the highest face in the Alps, and its nefarious history is fearful. In the attempted first ascent, many climbers lost their lives, facing the wall in summer “suicide” conditions. But at the time the political pushes were strong, and the means relatively rudimentary. Today, after repeating this route, I realize the exploit made by Harrer, Heckmair, Kasparek and Vorg, when they succeeded in 1938 … I would describe it as a brilliant route, which is repeated today in winter or spring, with wide safety margin on objective dangers. The itinerary is logical, sinuous and varied. Once you are immersed in this wall it is no longer so overwhelming, but you almost feel enveloped. It is undoubtedly a very demanding climb that must be tackled exclusively with great training and technical preparation.

To achieve these goals you need a great experience and excellent physical fitness. It will often be essential to make a preventive ascent to get to know each other and to assess your skills. Alternatively, we can offer you a training course to achieve your goal.

ATTENTION: it is at the discretion of the Guide to decide whether the climb requires one or more preparation climbs.